There is a lot more to Suspension than many realize. The geometry all of the links in your suspension system dictates where the wheel is going to point as it goes through its range of travel. If for example the rear wheels are pointing out as the suspension compresses, the car will forever be loose on throttle and it will make for a very frustrating car.

Playing with suspension link lengths and even pickup locations can help aliviate the problems we often see with lowered road cars. Having a car that keeps its wheels pointed where you want them throughout its travel range makes for a very fun to drive car that is neutral from turn in through to exit.

Bushings also play a large roll in this game, and changing as many links to sphericals will once again help get rid of the tendancy for wheels to "bump steer", bushings are specifically an issue when high downforce or sticky tires come into the equation.

Shocks and springs are another key suspension tuning element, and with the advent of 3 and 4 way adjustable dampers, it takes a lot of setting up to get the car to perform the way one wants, and it takes some understanding to get the full benefit out of the system. Spring rates, preload and tender springs are another aspect that needs to be fine tuned for the vehicle. Depending on how the car will be used and its tire sizing, motion ratios and downforce the spring rates will be selected, often requiring a soft tender spring to keep preload on the spring if the droop travel exceeds the spring's weighted compression (often the case with stiff springs).

Whether you're building a drift car or a lapping day car, suspension is the key to a car that is fun to drive. A properly setup suspension will make a car feel like it is driving itself, whereas a poorly setup suspension will not only make you look like an inconsistent poor driver (who wants that!) but it will also make for an evil car that is constantly trying to write itself off (perhaps that's worse?).